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Now
that we are dressed, let's go look at the bike. Is it in top condition?
I don't want to have to do bike maintenance on the side of the
road in sub-freezing temperatures, so I regularly do a thorough
check to make sure everything works perfectly. I also tend to
go with wider tires to avoid flats. I'd rather work a little harder
riding than to change a flat in the cold. Fenders are worth their
weight in gold in New England. I wouldn't think of doing a winter
or spring ride without them. Even if no rain is falling, snowmelt
keeps the roads wet and fenders keep the water on the road off
of me. I just can't emphasize enough that fenders are one of the
most valuable component for staying dry, warm and comfortable.
And as usual, I carry enough tools to do minor roadside repairs,
tire levers, tubes, wrenches, chain tool, etc.
I use a fixed gear bike most of the winter. A fixed gear bike
offers more control on icy surfaces. I wouldn't suggest taking
your first spin on a fixer on icy roads, but once used to riding
fixed wheel, you may find that increased control. With no derailleurs
there is far less maintenance and no chance of dealing with frozen
shift cables. Many racers used fixed gear bikes in the winter
for training - it will increase your ability to spin. This article
by the late Sheldon
Brown has some great advice on fixed gear riding and equipment.
I did fall on black ice one year (less than ½ mile from
home) and broke my collarbone. Now for the additional bit of control
I use Nokian
studded tires anytime I suspect the roads may be icy - this usually
means from November to March! I typically just use one on the
front. They do slow me down a bit, but have the added training
benefit of making me fly when I go back to regular tires in the
spring.
At this stage my winter bike is a cross frame with horizontal
dropouts, which allows me to have a fixed gear, clearance for
studded tires and fenders, and braze-ons for racks. Notice I said
horizontal dropouts, not track ends. The significance has to do
with fenders. With front facing horizontal dropouts, wheel removal
(for punctures, involves sliding the wheel forward - away from
the fenders. With track-ends, the wheel is removed from the back,
and can be a real problem with fenders. Keep this in mind if you
are planning to use a fixie with fenders. This is not an issue
if using an eccentric hub and vertical dropouts or an eccentric
bottom bracket.
I use the afore-mentioned bike both for commuting and recreational
winter rides. Since it is my commuter, it has lights. This is
also handy for a weekend ride, since the days are much shorter,
and a flat, mechanical problem or long break can result in a ride
finishing after dark. For a discussion of various lights, see
my article on lighting.
I mentioned a lot of clothing and the concept of layering earlier,
and you may wonder how to carry all that stuff when you aren't
wearing it. I use a Carradice
saddlebag or an Ortlieb
pannier. Both are waterproof(well the Carradice is pretty close),
and have reasonable carrying capacity. I have a rear rack and
use the pannier when I want to be able to easily leave the bike
and take the bag with me. If commuting and parking outside, I
tend to use the pannier. If using a bike without a rack, a saddlebag
with a Bagman
support is ideal. (Of course the saddlebag also works on a bike
with a rack!)
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